Create Your Own Pilgrimage Route

Ceci n’est pas un Camino

In the UK, there has been a buzz of new ‘pilgrimage routes’ as the UK seeks to emulate the success of the Camino to Santiago de Compostela. It is important to remember that there is really no such thing as an ‘authentically ancient pilgrimage route’, and any claims of this are mostly modern marketing.

You cannot be guaranteed to find true tradition, or depth of experience, on a path just because a route-maker called it a ‘pilgrimage’. The wholeness sought, the sincerity in your heart, and the gifts you offer, are what make a journey into a pilgrimage. Not following signposts or a guidebook from people claiming authority.

The true tradition of historic pilgrimage was pragmatism. Travelling from home, there was not such a focus on the ‘one correct path’ as we see today. Changing conditions in politics and weather, and the more flexible nature of roads and their safety, meant that pilgrims travelled however they could.

Unset routes

The oldest (and best) pilgrimage tradition is to make up your own pilgrimage route, from home to a chosen destination. Once you’ve decided where you want to go and your ideal daily distance (aim for less!), you can plot your route (via footpaths) backward from the destination, to find your nightly accommodation points.

Some pilgrims dictate their route entirely by places they need to stay. But beware pre-arranging too devotedly, as your pilgrimage will be bound to a structure that may no longer fit once you start walking. The more rewarding challenge, requiring deeper trust in the path, could be to simply set out and wing it on the path.

An advantage of making your own route is the ability to choose meaningful sub-destinations along the way. That hilltop - that cave - that waterfall - may not make sense in terms of straight-line journeying, but making sense is not a rule. If you are passing a few miles away from a really exciting ancient tree, surely it makes sense to detour?

Journeying from Home

Throughout history, most people lacked the option to travel to a distant location to begin their pilgrimage. It is a huge privilege to enjoy the modern flexibility to start a journey wherever you like, but also, departing from home connects your journey to everyday life in a deeply valuable way.

Often, pilgrimage can feel distinct and disconnected from ‘normal’ life. Setting off from home keeps our path connected with what is most near and dear. In my experience, this is the most powerfully authentic mode of pilgrimage.

The great adventurers in Western culture - Odysseus, Polo, Verne & Baggins - made their journeys from home, and then returned. This is how, for the majority of human history, pilgrimage happened.

Of course, if you walk from home to a holy place, the most sensible outcome on arrival is to walk back again. Walking there and back takes longer, but it offers valuable time to assimilate your journey. It’s like following a labyrinth. If you walk all the way to the centre, you don’t step over the lines to walk out again. Entering the deep way, and leaving the deep way, makes sense.

This practice makes your holy place destination only halfway. Home becomes the ultimate destination of your pilgrimage, to bring back the blessing you have collected, to integrate it fully into your everyday life.

Although it takes twice as long to achieve a ‘there and back again’ journey, you could mitigate this by choosing a destination half as distant? It is a truly worthwhile form of pilgrimage, and in my opinion offers deepest reward.

Go By Footpath

Travel by road is very different to travel by footpath. Road users, whether car, motorbike, bicycle or pavement walker, are exposed to air pollution, noise, intensity, litter and risk of injury.

Footpath walkers, by contrast, follow secret green passages between the roads. Footpaths are the old ways of Britain, and as a pilgrim you are best served by following these at every opportunity. Britain’s unique network of open pahs is wholly free to use, and open 24/7/365.

Footpaths connect us to the ancient lineages of the landscape. That old muddy track by the willows was once a bustling highway on which Kings and Vagabonds walked. It is easy to take this network of free passage for granted, but visitors from Australia and the USA are constantly amazed at the unparalleled freedom UK footpaths offer. These are among our greatest inheritances.

Plotting a Route

To plot your pilgrimage route, use OS (Ordnance Survey) maps, on paper or digital.

Use the same tool for route-plotting as you use on the path for Navigation. For me, the magical simplicity of GPS mapping on a smartphone/computer makes pilgrimage route-plotting superbly user-friendly. I find Memory Map to be the best app for this, for the ease of use of its smartphone app. Subscription on the yearly model is not expensive, and a free trial is also available. This lets you plot routes and measure distances easily, with all the detailed benefits of updated OS mapping (esp in the 1:25k scale).

You could also route-making apps which use OpenStreetMap footpath data. This is user-generated maping, an entirely free dataset of walking paths, and which can be better and worse than OS in different ways at different places. While OS shows the official and definitive public footpaths, OSM shows what local people reckon works.

Paper maps remain a really great resource for pilgrims, as they don’t run out of battery, and they don’t require any screen time. Also, they show a far larger span of space than any screen allows. But paper maps can blow away, or get spoiled by rain, and if you carry a few of them paper maps can be heavy. Choose what works best for you!

Walk in Beauty

Plot your pilgrimage to take you to the best places possible. Once you have a rough idea of where you’ll start (home?) and where you intend to arrive, draw a straight line between them on an OS 1:25k map. Then follow the footpaths nearest to the line, whilst being mindful of where you want to avoid (motorways and other fast roads, industry, urban build-up, cattle farms). Deviate as you need from the straight line, but use it as a guide to return to.

Checking your route on a satellite map is a great way to ensure the OS lines correspond to waht you really want to walk. I use Scribble Maps for this, but you can use Google My Maps too. Just save your Memory Map route as a GPX file, then import it onto your preferred app, and you can browse the path with the eagle’s vision.

If you find your path overlaps with pre-existing long distance footpaths, these can be convenient to hop on/off. But most of such routes are designed for mass usage, so often avoid the more delicate and beautiful spots. You are not bound to such routes. The footpath network is wide and flexible. So follow your nose to all the good places that the ‘official’ route-creator decided to bypass.

Adding the Good Stuff

Once you have a functional route planned, you can add value by referencing these websites, which will tell you where the most exciting holy places along the path might be.

Wikipedia - I always search for each village and town that my route passes near, to learn what stories are known of the place. Often I find sub-quests through such a alayer of research.

The Megalithic Portal map - for prehistoric stones and wells.

The Woodland Trust Ancient Tree Index - for significant trees.

English Heritage has good information on historic sites.

The National Trust holds many properties, including natural landscapes, in the UK.

Cadw map the historic sites of Wales.

Pastmap show the historic sites of Scotland.

English Local Nature Reserves are mapped here.

English National Nature Reserves are mapped here.

Welsh National Nature reserves are mapped here.

Scottish National Nature reserves are mapped here.

UK Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty are mapped here.

You may wish to plot a different path back from your way out. Returning by a different route is a very old nomadic tradition.

For more help on navigation, see here.